Home appliances
The choice is mostly about water, fabric care and your back. Capacity is the one spec people get wrong most often — usually by buying too small.
A few questions about your situation, not about the product.
Answer all 3 questions to see the spec sheet to shop with.
Dry weight of clothes per full load.
Why it matters
Too small means two cycles per wash day, which costs more water and time than the bigger machine ever would.
What to check
Roughly 6 kg for 2 people, 7–8 kg for 4, 9 kg+ if you wash bedding or curtains at home.
Drum on its side versus a vertical tub.
Why it matters
Front load uses far less water, cleans better and is gentler; top load is cheaper, faster and easier to load.
What to check
Front load needs a level floor, a drain, and you cannot add a stray sock mid-cycle on most models.
How hard it wrings clothes at the end.
Why it matters
Higher RPM means drier clothes out of the drum, crucial if you have no sunlight or a dryer.
What to check
1000–1200 RPM is the sweet spot; above 1400 creases delicate fabrics.
Variable-speed, usually direct-drive without a belt.
Why it matters
Quieter, more durable, less electricity — and usually a 10-year motor warranty.
What to check
The 10-year warranty is on the motor only; the electronics carry 1–2 years.
Quick wash, heavy soil, delicate, and a tub-clean cycle.
Why it matters
Three or four programmes cover 95% of laundry; the other fifteen are shelf appeal.
What to check
Front loads must run a hot tub-clean monthly or they smell.
Litres per cycle and units per year.
Why it matters
A front load can use less than half the water of a top load per kilo of laundry.
What to check
Ratings assume a full load — half loads wreck the economics on any machine.
Front load costs more upfront and less to run; top load is the reverse.
