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Vehicles

Bike & Scooter

Two-wheelers are bought on looks and mileage claims. What actually matters daily is seat height for your build, torque low down for city traffic, braking hardware, tyre width, and whether the service network in your town actually stocks parts.

Find your fit

A few questions about your situation, not about the product.

Where will you ride?pick one or more
Do you ride with a pillion?
Your height and comfort?
Petrol or electric?

Answer all 4 questions to see the spec sheet to shop with.

The spec sheet, decoded

Engine cc and torque delivery

Displacement, and where the pulling force arrives in the rev range.

Why it matters

For city riding, low-end torque matters more than peak power; for highways you want the opposite.

What to check

110–125cc for pure city, 150–200cc for mixed, 250cc+ only if you actually ride highways often.

Braking: CBS vs single-channel ABS vs dual-channel ABS

How braking force is distributed and whether wheels are stopped from locking.

Why it matters

Dual-channel ABS is the single biggest safety upgrade on a two-wheeler in wet Indian roads.

What to check

Below 125cc, CBS is mandatory but ABS is rare — check disc size too, not just the letters.

Kerb weight and seat height

How heavy the vehicle is, and how tall the seat sits (mm).

Why it matters

A tall or heavy bike is tiring in traffic and unsafe if you cannot flat-foot at a signal.

What to check

Under 5'6", look for 780–800 mm seat height. Sit on it with both feet down before buying.

Real mileage (kmpl) and tank size

Fuel economy in your conditions and range per fill.

Why it matters

Claimed figures come from ideal test rides; city riding with pillion drops them 15–25%.

What to check

Multiply realistic kmpl by tank litres — that is your true range, which matters more than the kmpl number.

Suspension and tyres

Telescopic vs USD forks, twin shocks vs monoshock, and tyre width/type.

Why it matters

Monoshock plus wider tubeless tyres transform potholed-road comfort and wet grip.

What to check

Tubeless tyres are worth insisting on — a puncture can be plugged instead of stranding you.

Petrol vs electric two-wheeler

IC engine versus battery, motor and charger.

Why it matters

Electric scooters cost far less per km, but range, battery warranty and charging access decide if that saving is real.

What to check

Ask true range with a pillion, battery warranty in years AND km, and whether the battery is removable.

Service network and parts

How far the nearest authorised service centre is, and part availability.

Why it matters

A cheaper brand with a distant service centre costs you days, not just money.

What to check

Ask for the price of a common consumable — brake pads, clutch plate set, or a battery pack for EVs.

Before you pay

  • Sit on the bike with both feet flat before you look at anything else.
  • Confirm ABS type (single or dual channel) for the exact variant you are quoted.
  • Ask for the on-road break-up: ex-showroom, RTO, insurance, accessories.
  • Check nearest service centre distance and typical service turnaround.
  • For EVs: ask range with pillion, battery warranty in years and km, and charge time on a normal socket.

Common traps

  • !Mileage claims measured solo at 40 kmph on flat roads with no traffic.
  • !'ABS' in the brochure that turns out to be single-channel on the front wheel only.
  • !EV range figures from eco mode at low speed that halve at real riding speeds.

Add insurance, helmet, and 2 years of service to the on-road price before comparing two models.

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