Lumens (brightness)
Actual light output.
Why it matters
A bedroom needs ~1,500–2,500 lumens total; a kitchen counter needs far more.
What to check
Compare lumens across brands, since 9W bulbs range from 800 to 1,100 lumens.
Home appliances
With LEDs, watts only measure electricity used. Brightness is lumens, the mood is kelvin, and whether your food and skin look right is CRI — the number no shop mentions.
A few questions about your situation, not about the product.
Answer all 2 questions to see the spec sheet to shop with.
Actual light output.
Why it matters
A bedroom needs ~1,500–2,500 lumens total; a kitchen counter needs far more.
What to check
Compare lumens across brands, since 9W bulbs range from 800 to 1,100 lumens.
Warm yellow (2700K) to cool daylight (6500K).
Why it matters
6500K keeps you alert — wrong for bedrooms. 2700–3000K is restful; 4000K is neutral for study and kitchens.
What to check
Most Indian homes are over-lit with 6500K everywhere; it looks like an office.
How true colours look under the light, out of 100.
Why it matters
Under CRI 70 light, food, clothes and skin look grey. CRI 90+ is worth it in kitchens, mirrors and living rooms.
What to check
CRI is often hidden; ask or check the box — anything 80+ is acceptable, 90+ is good.
The electronics inside the bulb.
Why it matters
Indian voltage swings kill cheap drivers; this is why bulbs fail in months.
What to check
Look for 'wide voltage 100–300V' and a real 2-year replacement warranty.
Invisible rapid flicker and whether it works with dimmers.
Why it matters
Flicker causes eye strain and headaches during long study or work hours.
What to check
Point a phone camera at the bulb — visible banding means flicker.
How wide the light spreads: bulb, panel, downlight, strip.
Why it matters
Downlights need planning to avoid dark patches; panels give even room light.
What to check
For task lighting, narrow beams; for rooms, 120°+ spread.
Basic 9W bulbs to high-CRI panels and smart bulbs.