Rated vs cell capacity
Usable output vs the printed cell rating.
Why it matters
Real output ≈ 60–70% of the label. A 10,000 mAh bank gives roughly 6,500 mAh.
What to check
Good brands print 'rated capacity' on the back — compare that.
Electronics
A 20,000 mAh power bank does not give 20,000 mAh to your phone. Voltage conversion eats a third of it, and the output wattage decides whether it charges your laptop at all.
A few questions about your situation, not about the product.
Answer all 2 questions to see the spec sheet to shop with.
Usable output vs the printed cell rating.
Why it matters
Real output ≈ 60–70% of the label. A 10,000 mAh bank gives roughly 6,500 mAh.
What to check
Good brands print 'rated capacity' on the back — compare that.
PD (Power Delivery), QC (Quick Charge) and watts.
Why it matters
Phones want 18–30W PD; laptops need 45–65W PD. Mismatched protocol means slow charging.
What to check
'22.5W max' is often shared across ports, not per port.
How fast the bank itself refills.
Why it matters
A 20,000 mAh bank with 10W input takes 8+ hours to recharge.
What to check
Look for 30W+ input on large banks.
USB-C, USB-A count, and charging while being charged.
Why it matters
USB-C in/out is essential now; pass-through is handy overnight.
What to check
Some banks only charge via micro-USB — outdated.
Li-ion vs Li-polymer, plus protection circuitry.
Why it matters
Li-polymer is safer and slimmer; BIS certification matters for flights and safety.
What to check
Airlines restrict banks above 100 Wh (~27,000 mAh).
Grams you'll actually carry.
Why it matters
20,000 mAh banks weigh ~400 g — heavy for daily pocket carry.
What to check
Match size to whether it's for travel or daily bag.
10,000 mAh pocket banks to 20,000 mAh 65W laptop-capable units.